Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
